The most labor-intensive part of the cooking is the stuffing, which took 30 minutes, start to finish in The Haas Test Kitchen this morning. Is life a battle of desire against what’s right? Are we fated to repeat childhood’s lessons until we are old? Where are the salted peanuts? Why can’t I find the salted [...]
Entries from November 2009
Thanksgiving Helpline: Last Minute Questions and Updates
November 26th, 2009 · 1 Comment · Commentary
Boids
November 25th, 2009 · No Comments · Commentary
The countdown to The Big Day commences: in less than 24 hours our homes will be filled with hungry family and friends rich with expectations. Birds will be roasted, sides cooked, bottles uncorked, the whole nine yards. This year my mom is dressing up, as usual, in her “Jane Pilgrim,” outfit, which may sound racy, [...]
Something of Their Own
November 24th, 2009 · No Comments · Commentary
In NYC, where Italian restaurants have become better, as a group, in comparison to what is served in any Italian city, what do two of the newest additions, Locanda Verde and Maialino, bring to the scene? Locanda Verde has elevated traditional Italian-American food: refined it, located its relationships to the food of Italy, and demonstrated [...]
Two New Italian Restaurants in NYC
November 23rd, 2009 · 1 Comment · Commentary
Ten days ago, Danny Meyer opened Maialino in the Gramercy Park Hotel. In May, Andrew Carmellini opened Locanda Verde in the Greenwich Hotel. Maialino is a Roman-style trattoria. Locanda Verde is refined Italian-American and traditional and broadly Italian. Both restaurants offer ingredient driven menus in unpretentious and lively settings with service that is smart, well-informed, [...]